Experimental research on kinematics of breaking waves

Chia, De Wang and Tao, Longbin and Wang, Xin and Zhang, Yali and Dev, Arun Kr (2018) Experimental research on kinematics of breaking waves. Journal of Hydrodynamics, 30 (3). pp. 390-394. ISSN 1001-6058 (https://doi.org/10.1007/s42241-018-0045-2)

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One important kinematic properties of breaking waves is the wave celerity. Constant wave celerity has been used for the wave breaking criterion by many researchers. However, this approach does not consider the variation of wave celerity at different phases before breaking. Hence, this article examines the aspects of the wave breaking criterion and dynamics of wave celerity before wave breaking. Breaking waves were generated using the JONSWAP focused spectrum and a semi-empirical formula for the wave celerity estimation was established.